Beach Time

In the Pacific Northwest

 

by Kim Cooper Findling

Tide pools near Cape Kiwanda

As the heat of summer descends, there’s only one place Pacific Northwesterners want to be—the beach. When inland days are steamy, an afternoon spent with toes curled in the sand and skin soothed by a cool ocean breeze can cure most ills. This has been true for many summer seasons. In the early 1900s, the northern Oregon Coast bloomed in summers with families taking up residence for the season. The $5 Portland Express Train delivered fathers from the city on Friday nights, henceforth earning its nickname, the “Daddy Train.” Since those early days of summer reprieve, the northern Oregon Coast—just 85 miles from Portland—has only become busier in July and August. Still, there are a few destinations where souls in search of solace in the sea air can find old-fashioned beach town experiences plus a decent shot at beating the crowds.

Gearhart

Golf links and razor clams

Gearhart Golf Links | Photo Courtesy: Don Frank 

Located just three miles north of Seaside (one of the Oregon Coast’s most-visited destinations), Gearhart has managed to maintain the quiet ambiance of its own history. As the Oregon Coast’s first planned resort community, Gearhart had its beginnings at the end of the 1800s.Modest cottages, Victorian dwellings and hotels sprung up among sandy beaches, dune meadows and the Gearhart Golf Links—the oldest golf course in the Pacific Northwest and one of the oldest west of the Mississippi. Visitors to modern Gearhart golf this 18-hole links-style course today, as well as the newer Highlands Golf Club. The historic hotels were lost to fire long ago, but a stay at McMenamins Gearhart Hotel gives the flavor of their history. Located in the historic Kelly House overlooking the Golf Links course, guests choose one of 34 rooms in this Cape Cod-style building. Consider parking the car for the weekend and traversing the wide, quiet streets on a bicycle. Journey to the center of town to nosh on a scone at The Pacific Way, a cafe which began as a mom-and-pop grocery in the 1920s; browse for antiques at Pacific Crest Cottage; take the family to 12-lane Gearhart Bowl; or catch the charming 4th of July parade, complete with hot dogs cooked by the local fire department and followed by a good old-fashioned evening street dance. Until July 15, dig for Oregon’s famous razor clams at Del Rey Beach State Recreation Site (the season closes July 15 through September 30 to protect young clams). In August, peruse art at Gearhart ArtWalk, or bring a blanket and picnic to Music in the Park at Gearhart Centennial Park.

Manzanita

Beach, books and the family dog

The Winery at Manzanita

The friendly little sister to classy Cannon Beach, Manzanita isn’t exactly undiscovered these days, but pull off the highway to this one-road-in beach town and you’ll still experience a sense of calm. The expansive beach, anchored on the north end by looming Neahkahnie Mountain, is fronted by dozens of well-kept beach rentals. Choose one for the week and settle in. Laneda Avenue is dotted with delightful shops and restaurants, including the well-curated Cloud & Leaf Bookstore and the place for pet-themed gifts, Four Paws on the Beach. As a destination on the North Coast Food Trail, Manzanita offers Pacific Northwest-grown agriculture at Offshore Grill and Coffeehouse or Wild Manzanita, an organic grocery and cafe. At The Winery at Manzanita, sip on wines fermented on site. Friday evenings in summer, the place to be is the Manzanita Farmers Market, where vendors gather to offer local produce, fresh flowers, baked bread and live music. At Nehalem Bay State Park south of town, book a horseback beach ride with Northwest Equine Outfitters to take in the view from a classic vantage point. Top summer off with a festival celebrating dogs—Muttzanita hits the sand in early September with a day full of pet parades, pet talent contests and the most impressive game of fetch ever witnessed.

Oceanside

Sea stacks and a secret passageway

Photo Courtesy: David Young-Wolff

Tillamook Creamery

Visit Tillamook for cheese, ice cream and selfies with the enormous cow that greets guests to the famous Tillamook Creamery (founded in 1909 as a farmer-owned cooperative and still going strong), and then journey to the nearby, tucked-away cove and beach town Oceanside for serenity and scenery. There is no hustle and bustle to this tiny enclave—thankfully. Visible from most places in this hillside town are the sea stacks Three Arch Rocks, a national wildlife refuge home to seabirds and other wild creatures. Spread out your beach blanket to watch the common murres and double-crested cormorants dip and sway in the ocean winds. Stay at the tranquil Three Arch Inn, where guests both hear and see the ocean from their rooms. Downstairs is the Oceanside Surf Co., doubling as a cafe where the friendly staff makes breakfast burritos and provides tips on local waves. Maxwell Point is the large head to the north of town; at low tide, venture to its base on an old-time adventure—a tunnel to the aptly named Tunnel Beach, secret coves and secluded beaches. Keep an eye on the tide! Three miles south of Oceanside in Netarts, home to the classic lodging Terimore Inn, is the inimitable Schooner Restaurant and Lounge with its oodles of fresh Netarts Bay Pacific oysters, harvested for decades from the bay before it.

Pacific City

Surfing, camping and libations

Cape Kiwanda Haystack Rock | Photo Courtesy: mtmmedia.ca

Once a hidden gem, modern Pacific City is undeniably busy in the summer months. Nevertheless, with advanced planning visitors can achieve a classic Oregon beach camping trip. Cape Kiwanda RV Park is within walking distance to the beach, while also offering an indoor pool, playground, yard games, a fish-cleaning station and fire pits. Hart’s Camp is another option, with Airstreams, cabins and cottages for rent. The flagship Pelican Brewing Company holds court on Pacific City’s beachfront with indoor and outdoor seating, dozens of fresh craft brews and a full menu, featured on the North Coast Food Trail. Pacific City was one of Oregon’s earliest surfing meccas; rent a board from Moment Surf Co. and catch the uncrowded, approachable waves that peel off Cape Kiwanda. Shallow, flat-bottomed boats known as dories are another Pacific City tradition, dating back to the early 1900s. Launched from the beach through the surf, the boats are great for fishing; book a trip with a guide through Pacific City Dory Fishing Charters and catch your own Dungeness crab, salmon or albacore tuna. Commemorating this local tradition is Dory Days, held each July and celebrating its 65th anniversary this year. Enjoy the parade, fish fry and live music. Finish the weekend with a hike up Cape Kiwanda, named for local leader Chief Kiawanda of the Nestugga Tribe. The tribe’s name later morphed to become “Nestucca” and was given to the river visible from the top of a steep climb, sure to leave you breathless from both the effort and the incredible view.