A bus excursion from quaint Arles (population 52,000) to busy Avignon, with its 481,000 inhabitants, turned out to be a jarring transition. Like Lyon (population 1.8 million) to the north, Avignon is as packed with history as it is with modern shops. But it’s also prone to crowds, and we soon concluded that for us the smaller towns—several we had never heard of previously—would win our hearts.

For example, guide Mylène Paris shepherded us on a hike through the climbing 14th-century streets of tiny Viviers, which has seen its population dwindle to fewer than 4,000 from a height of 30,000 in medieval times. In those days, Paris told us, animals were butchered right in the village streets. Of course, a lot was different back then.

“You’d be expected to eat two pounds of bread in a day,” she said. “As far as drinking, [residents drank] as many as two to four bottles of wine daily.”

We didn’t come remotely close to that wine consumption on this trip, despite the temptation of gamays from Mâcon and pinot noirs from Burgundy.

But the bread proved irresistible. Every small-town boulangerie deserved our attention, and even on Sundays and Mondays, when most shops were closed, we found bakeries willing to satisfy our cravings for a fresh baguette or apple tart.

We discovered further evidence of the Roman influence in Vienne, where an amphitheater is still used for events. In the town center, we saw couples sipping coffee next to a Roman temple dedicated to Emperor Augustus, its massive columns dominating the square.

As our river journey proceeded north from Provence into Burgundy, bus excursions transported us into the heart of wine country. We spent one morning in Beaune, a beautiful walled city that is ground zero for Burgundy winemaking and home to a spectacular art-filled former hospital that dates to 1443.

We explored castles such as the Château de Cormatin, where the gilded walls still shine brilliantly more than 400 years after they were painted. Such fortified residences, built to repel invaders, now welcome visitors with open arms, sometimes over a glass or two of wine.

At the Château de Pierreclos, we sampled chardonnay and pinot noir in a barrel-lined limestone cave.

On another afternoon, the Count Raoul de Ternay welcomed us to the Château de Rully, where his family has resided continuously since the 12th century. From the grand salon to a billiard room and the kitchen, the count walked us through the family history and wine production, opening a bottle of chardonnay with a resounding pop.

“That,” guide Sophie Marié told us, “is the best sound ever.”