Photo courtesy of istock/brown54486
A Winter Weekend in Astoria, Oregon
Embrace the season with a getaway to this historic riverfront town
Perched in the hills near the mouth of the mighty Columbia River, the town of Astoria has been particularly good at creating a warm welcome in winter—for hundreds of years. An ancestral homeland of the Clatsop and Chinook people, the area provided rest and respite for Lewis and Clark’s Corps of Discovery, who relied on tribal leaders for hospitality essential to their survival in the winter of 1805-06. After John Jacob Astor’s traders established the first permanent American settlement west of the Rockies in 1811, Astoria became home to many cultures and business ventures, from fish canneries to timber mills and maritime shipping. And where the mighty Columbia meets the crashing waters of the Pacific Ocean lies the formidable Columbia River Bar, an immensely hazardous stretch of water responsible for approximately two thousand vessel sinkings throughout history.
Nowadays, you’ll still find ships gliding by on the river, but far more museums and shops than warehouses lining its banks. With a walkable downtown and views galore, Astoria has plenty of theaters and galleries to visit on a chilly day, as well as events, brewpubs and intimate wine bars filled with community spirit.
Photo courtesy of istock/GarysFRP
Photo courtesy of Beyond The Trail PNW
Play
Head to the Astoria Column atop Coxcomb Hill for sweeping 360-degree views that stretch west across the Columbia to the Pacific Ocean, east to the crater of Mount St. Helens and south to the coastal foothills and Saddle Mountain. If it isn’t too windy, ascend the spiral staircase inside the 125-foot pillar to an observation deck, or observe the frieze artwork on its outside that depicts the history of Astoria. Every night, the column is lit with colorful LED lights, and during the holidays it is transformed into a brightly lit Christmas tree.
Downtown, you’ll find more ways to celebrate on Commercial Street, where the Liberty Theatre hosts various holiday-themed shows in a restored 1925-era motion picture palace. Take a ride to winter celebrations at Pier 39 on the Christmas trolley (dependent on weather). This vintage, open-air trolley slides along riverfront tracks for spectacular views of the Columbia and Astoria’s east side.
No trip to Astoria is complete without a visit to the Flavel House Museum, a 11,600-square-foot Queen Anne-style mansion built for an early Columbia River bar pilot and known for its appearance in The Goonies. On select weekends in November and December, the museum hosts a Holiday Tea, complete with plum pudding and a tour of the house by the Clatsop County Historical Society, which also operates a well-curated history museum. Advance reservations are required.
Photo courtesy of Astoria Warrenton Travel Alliance
Photo courtesy of Astoria Warrenton Travel Alliance
Discover
Anyone seeking a deeper understanding of Astoria’s maritime culture should plan a stop at the world-class Columbia River Maritime Museum, which tells the story of Astoria’s industries, Native and seafaring heritage, and Columbia River Bar shipwrecks. By the end of 2026, the museum will open the Warnock Building, a 24,500-square-foot expansion that houses historic boats and artifacts in its collection. Each winter, a popular lecture series on maritime topics takes place.
For more expert talks—with excellent beer—don’t miss Thursday evenings at Fort George Brewery from November to May. Buy a pint and upscale pub grub, then settle in for an hour of Astoria history or wildlife conservation success stories.
Known for its art scene, galleries featuring everything from sea creature-inspired lamps to life-sized paintings made from ink prints of fish line the streets. Check out Imogen Gallery, RiverSea Gallery and a host of others on a casual stroll downtown, or meet artists every month during the Second Saturday Art Walk.
While you’re exploring downtown, be sure to pick up some Nordic holiday gifts at Finn Ware or books to enjoy by the fire at Lucy’s Books—two local institutions.
Photo courtesy of Buoy Beer Company
Indulge
Start the day with a hearty Scandinavian breakfast at Stranded (try the puffy æbleskiver pancakes) or coffee and homemade biscuits at the chic Rusty Cup. On a clear-weather day, take breakfast or lunch on the riverside patio with views of cargo ships at Coffee Girl, located in a former cannery on Pier 39. For lunch or dinner, sample local seafood at South Bay Wild Fish House.
Astoria’s brewery scene is hopping at relative newcomer Obelisk Beer Co., which joins the city’s renowned Buoy Beer Company and Fort George Brewery. Don’t miss a stop at Brut Wine Bar, where you’re sure to meet friendly folks to exchange travel tips over sips.
Photo courtesy of Commodore Hotel
Stay
Astoria’s lodgings are often discounted in winter months. Splurge on the Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa, perched on a pier 600 feet into the Columbia River. Take in first-class views of ships passing under the magnificent Astoria-Megler Bridge, as well as luxury amenities, local art in each room and sauna relaxation.
On the riverfront downtown, Bowline Hotel offers a range of beautiful rooms and suites, all appointed with industrial-chic décor, and some including soaking tubs and fireplaces. The nearby Commodore Hotel—a pet-friendly, hundred-year-old gem in the heart of downtown—boasts affordable rates, a library lounge and an extensive DVD collection.
Intrepid storm-watchers might try year-round camping at Fort Stevens State Park west of town on the edge of the Pacific. Here, find a wide range of sites, including 15 yurts and 11 deluxe cabins that are particularly cozy in winter.
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