Photo Courtesy: Steve Heap
Cruising Alaska
Find amazement in the 49th state
As much as words and photos might hint at Alaska’s grandeur, know this: The reality always seems to surpass our imaginings. I rediscovered these truths last summer on an 11-day Alaska and the Inside Passage cruise from Seward, Alaska, to Vancouver, B.C., aboard the Viking Orion. For some on the ship, this was a first foray to Alaska. For others—my wife and me included—it was a chance to reexperience the state’s natural wonders from a floating base of grace, sophistication and elegance.
As bucket-list adventures go, cruising is the preferred alternative for most Alaska summer visitors. About two-thirds of the 2.7 million individuals who visited during the warmer months of 2024 did so by cruise ship.
The state is vast—more than twice as big as Texas—but the famed Inside Passage exposes visitors to a stunning display of wildlife and terrain. From the ship, we saw orcas and humpback whales, glaciers and snowcapped peaks. We traced the path of eagles and watched fishing boats gather salmon into their nets. And we did it with comfort and ease aboard the Viking Orion, a small modern vessel that holds 930 passengers—less than half the size of most Alaska cruise ships.
“I had no idea we’d see things like this,” said Don Campbell of Buhl, Idaho, a passenger celebrating his 48th wedding anniversary. “I thought that except for a few big peaks, Alaska was pretty flat. Instead it’s so vertical. This trip [was] magnificent—I saw things I’ve never seen before.”
Photo Courtesy: Alex Pulaski
Glaciers and Wildlife
The journey begins in Seward, a favorite Alaska stop with a picturesque harbor and a wealth of outdoor opportunities.
Glaciers abound here: You can paddle near one in a kayak, take a helicopter ride to a glacial lagoon, or see the Exit Glacier up close on a hike.
The next stop: Valdez, another hub for outdoor adventures such as white-water rafting on the cold, silty waters of the Lowe River. Travel through Keystone Canyon with Pangaea Adventures to experience the region’s sheer walls rich in scenery, from wildflowers to waterfalls.
The cruise continues through the Valdez Narrows toward Prince William Sound, where ship-goers can witness fishing trawlers by the dozens circling their nets. Flashes of shimmering silver signal success—salmon by the hundreds can often be seen wriggling on the deck.
Traveling south along the coast toward Vancouver, opportunities to see wildlife are prolific. Spot glaciers, bald eagles and humpback whales and their calves on a whale-watching excursion with Harv and Marv’s, setting out from Juneau, the state capital. Or kayak on a tranquil bay filled with moon jellyfish and brightly colored sea stars after a morning walk through scenic downtown Sitka. If lucky, those on land excursions can even see (from a safe distance) grizzly bears foraging for berries.
Wildlife spotting, however, isn’t limited to port excursions. Aboard ship, passengers can watch pods of orcas lolling by or have dinner pleasantly interrupted by humpback whales passing alongside the vessel.
Photo Courtesy: Viking Cruises
The Ship as a Destination
On any cruise, the on-board experience matters as much—and sometimes more—as the destination itself.
Viking Orion, a vessel designed for all-adult voyages that debuted in 2018, has a sleek Scandinavian elegance that shows itself in warm woods, leather seating, state rooms that all feature verandas, and an abundance of cozy common areas that feel like living rooms.
The massive Explorers’ Lounge, at the ship’s fore, has a wall of full-length windows that reveal Alaska’s beauty. A spa comes equipped with a hydrotherapy pool and steam room, and adds to the feeling of traveling on an oversized luxury yacht.
Dining experiences range from the casual Pool Grill or World Café to elevated dining at Manfredi’s—Italian cuisine—and The Chef’s Table, which features a rotating five-course dinner that changes themes every few days.
Photo Courtesy: iStock
Lasting Reminders
Much has changed in the nearly 150 years since naturalist John Muir explored Alaska in a dugout canoe accompanied by Indigenous guides. Enthralled by ice-covered mountains and the abundance of salmon and other wildlife, he wrote, “How delightful it is, and how it makes one’s pulses bound to get back into this reviving northland wilderness.”
Those words came back on our last sailing day, as I thought of our own salmon adventure from Ketchikan the day before. Pulling out of the marina, Captain Nick Hashagen of Chasin’ Tail Charters said there were plenty of salmon out there, but that seeing a whale would be a bonus.
Eight salmon, and a whole lot of sunshine and smiles later, we were ready to call it a day. As if on cue, a humpback surfaced near the boat with a whoosh from its blowhole. Then it was gone, leaving another Alaska memory in its wake.
Alex Pulaski is a freelance travel writer and former travel editor at The Oregonian. He writes for The Boston Globe, Los Angeles Times and other publications across the country. and JRNY Travel Magazine.
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