Fall in Love with Philadelphia
History meets hip in the City of Brotherly Love
by Meryl Pearlstein
Photo Courtesy: J. Fusco for Visit Philadelphia
If you haven’t yet ventured to the East Coast because you thought the cities were too big, too crowded, or lacked enough green space to keep you happy, you should consider a visit to the City of Brotherly Love. With a wealth of historical, cultural and culinary attractions, America’s “first planned city” is also the park-filled birthplace of the United States, where the Founding Fathers debated and rewrote the articles that would create the Declaration of Independence. With direct flights and Amtrak train service to the city, or an easy two-hour drive from the airports of New York City, Philadelphia, affectionately known as Philly, offers charm and history in a walkable mashup of neighborhoods.
Get to Know the City
Photo Courtesy istock.com/f11photo
Founded by Quakers in 1682, Philadelphia brings United States history to life as you tour buildings and areas prominent in the making of the nation. Bring a comfortable pair of walking shoes—the city lends itself to exploration by foot as you visit neighborhoods with names such as Center City, Society Hill, Fairmount, Fishtown, and Passyunk.
For a relaxed yet comprehensive overview of Philadelphia’s role in American history, start your visit with a narrated hop-on, hop-off bus tour. While you pass the city’s distinctive rowhouses and squares, you’ll also learn about Revolutionary War VIPs such as Benjamin Franklin, Betsy Ross and John Adams. Schedule extra time in Old City to visit the famously “cracked” Liberty Bell; Independence Hall where the Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776; and narrow, cobblestoned Elfreth’s Alley, where you can experience what is considered to be the oldest residential street in America at an age of more than 300 years.
With a commanding presence, Philadelphia’s statue-covered City Hall was designed in the ornate Napoleon III Second Empire architectural style. As the country’s largest municipal building, the prominent structure is crowned by a 27-ton statue of William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania and later, Philadelphia. Reserve tickets for a Tower Tour and enjoy a panoramic city view from the open-air observation deck. The well-known red LOVE sculpture by Robert Indiana sits nearby in appropriately named LOVE Park. If the city’s diverse architectural style has piqued your curiosity, a tour of The Masonic Temple across the street is well worth the visit. Inside are individually decorated rooms in spectacular Egyptian, Renaissance and Oriental décor.
History Mixed with Culture and Recreation
Photo Courtesy J. Fusco for Visit Philadelphia
Take a break at Dilworth Park, the centerpiece of the city, to enjoy its trees, grass lawns and a fountain that turns into an ice-skating rink in the winter. Then head to Reading Terminal Market, an enclosed public market since 1893. The country’s “first food hall,” it has more than 80 merchants and food stands with something to satisfy sweet tooth and lunch cravings alike. DiNic’s roast pork sandwich is a garlicky-cheesy Philadelphia specialty, perfectly complemented by Pennsylvania Dutch treats like Amish shoofly pie. But a go-to Philly treat is Bassetts Ice Cream, the country’s oldest ice cream company, scooping butterfat-rich flavors such as coffee and chocolate that will have you craving seconds.
Newly energized, get ready for more Philly sightseeing. From the Market, take an informative stroll along the city’s historic streets to the Delaware River. En route, admire the distinctive bricks that give the rowhouses their character before detouring to South Street for Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens, a Gaudiesque mosaic-covered masterpiece of found materials by artist Isaiah Zagar. After wandering the labyrinthine paths, revert eastward towards Penn’s Landing where you can breathe in the waterfront air and enjoy some park time while taking in the boats and the Benjamin Franklin Bridge.
Photo Courtesy Hope Daluisio, Visit Philadelphia
Photo Courtesy istock.com/Ray Tan
Sports are a big deal in Philadelphia, with iconic teams such as the Phillies, Eagles, Flyers and 76ers. If you can’t score tickets, Xfinity Live! is a sports bar and restaurant complex adjacent to the stadiums and arenas, a spirited meeting place for Phillie Phanatics—as local fans of the MLB Phillies are often called. For something more participatory, Fairmount Park is one of the largest urban parks in the United States, divided into two areas by the Schuylkill River. The park features a treetop obstacle course and trails for hiking, walking and cycling.
The Rocky movies were filmed in Philadelphia and many of its locations are recognizable. Touring Philadelphia’s streets, it’s almost impossible to avoid humming the theme song. Run up the stairs of the Philadelphia Museum of Art for a cardio fix and pump your fists at the top à la Rocky Balboa. Be sure to visit the museum itself, one of the country’s top art institutions. (Note that the queue to the right of the stairs is for a Rocky statue photo op and not for museum tickets.) A short walk away, The Rodin Museum has the largest public collection of Auguste Rodin works outside of Paris, displayed in a Beaux-Arts-style building and garden. More of a salon than a museum, The Barnes Foundation houses a one-of-a-kind assemblage of impressionist, post-impressionist and modern European paintings along with other works of art. Do you have kids in tow? The Franklin Institute is all about science while the Please Touch Museum gives everyone license to play.
Casual Dining and More
Philadelphia has much more to offer in the way of culinary prowess. From Asian to Italian to Philly’s own cheesesteaks, you won’t be lacking in dining diversity.
Having a cheesesteak in Philadelphia is de rigueur. Each Philadelphian has their preferred cheese-steak-and-onion sammy spot, but the long-standing champ is Pat’s King of Steaks in South Philly, another area you might recognize from the Rocky movies. You can order a cheesesteak with provolone or American cheese. But to show your local savvy, ask for yours “Whiz wit,” an insider’s preferred way of ordering a cheesesteak topped with Cheez Whiz spread and grilled onions. Be prepared, it’s cash-only at Pat’s.
If you ask any Philadelphian about two other Philly faves, the roast pork sandwich and Italian hoagie, expect some impassioned debate. To eliminate the guesswork, trust expert Maddy Sweitzer-Lamme of Tiny Table Tours to show you the best of Philly’s foodie neighborhoods—she’ll take you to Little Saigon for a banh mi, to East Passyunk to compare cheesesteaks and discuss pork sandwiches, and to South 9th Street Italian Market for samples from its specialty cold cuts, cheese and cannoli shops.
Lest you fear that Philly doesn’t offer finer dining, explore the numerous restaurants scattered throughout the city from Iron Chef favorite Jose Garces, Chef Michael Solomonov, and restaurateur Stephen Starr, with menus ranging from Latin and Spanish to Japanese and Mediterranean. Book a table if you can at these James Beard Award winners: Friday Saturday Sunday, Zahav, and Vedge—the latter is a must for vegetarians.
Philly has a lively bar culture, too. Try a.bar in Rittenhouse Square, a top cocktail bistro, or Bank & Bourbon, featuring a menu of some 100 bourbons. Surround yourself with history while you sip a brew at 160-year-old McGillin’s Olde Ale House, one of the oldest taverns in the United States. The trendy Fishtown neighborhood has a range of hip bars including popular Fishtown Tavern, perfect for sampling Philly’s craft beers, and Fette Sau where BBQ pairs deliciously with a broad selection of whiskeys.
Sleeping with History
Photo Courtesy Jason Varney
A hotel in a well-located landmarked building makes an appropriate base for soaking up Philadelphia’s rich history. Loews Philadelphia sits in one of the country’s first skyscrapers, built in Art Deco style, sporting spacious rooms and a spa with a hammam. Neighboring Canopy by Hilton Philadelphia Center City has its home in the 1897 Stephen Girard building with an eclectic historic-meets-hip-hop vibe. The hotel lends complimentary bikes to guests tired of walking. For history with a twist, Guild House Hotel is an intimate boutique housed in the former headquarters of the New Century Guild, one of America’s first clubs for working women. The hotel, a National Historic Landmark, continues to honor a tradition of inclusivity while providing luxury amenities and service.
Meryl Pearlstein is an editor and award-winning writer specializing in culinary travel and natural history. Residing in New York City, she is a board member of the Society of American Travel Writers and has written for publications across the country.